![]() ![]() Capacitor Discharge Stud Welding Equipment.Blind Metric Rivet Nuts – European Standard.Spring-Loaded Panel Fastener for PC Boards.Flare Mounted Threaded Standoffs for PC Boards.Thru-Hole Standoffs for Stainless Steel.Blind Standoffs for Stainless Steel Sheets.Hardened Nuts for Stainless Steel Sheets.Quick Navigation General DeLorean Discussion Top ![]() I'm going to pick a bunch of these up, I never knew they existed! Thanks for sharing! Needle nose vice grips would do wonders to remove a stubborn bolt stuck in one if it had the edge to grip (which the flush designs don't). I'd like to see some that are shallow on one side and deep on the other. Normally they're flush on one side and deep on the other. What they really ought to do is make rivnuts that have grip on BOTH sides of the surface. If you don't have access to the backside then removal is still the same PITA as before. Unless you're talking about digging into the fiberglass, which I can see. The grip still comes from it surrounding the hole drilled for it, the shape of the grip doesn't particularly matter if this is a completely flat surface. How so? They look fantastic if you're able to get the plus sides aligned with some built-in stopping mechanism, but if the surface is completely flat, I don't see it offering any advantage at all. Looks like they would grab the fiberglass better. That might also be the case on our cars where there isn't enough room for that big of a mushroom on the back side of the fiberglass. one other disadvantage I remember was since they have a much wider distortion area on the blind side of the sheet of they didn't fit in some of our existing applications where the hole was close to a bend radius or edge of the sheet. I used a product called Tef-Gel which is basically Teflon powder suspended in grease.īack on the plusnut style inserts though. ![]() Using anti-seize on the fastener threads will also help prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (aluminum insert, zinc plated steel bolts). I did a refurb on my luggage compartment a few years back and drilled out all the old rivnuts and replaced them with aluminum knurled AVK's. The standard M5 rivnuts that you can find on the DMCH online store are all smooth body aluminum inserts so a knurled body aluminum insert would be a good improvement over the standard. Here's a basic chart for threaded insert sizes, and you can see there are 2-4 different lengths for each thread size. If too long of an insert is used the barrel of the insert will fully mushroom out to prevent pull out, but spin out resistance is reduced since full clamp load is not achieved. If you install an insert that is too short for the application there will not be enough material to distort around the blind side of the hole and both spin out and pull out resistance are reduced. I believe we did some additional testing where we installed an insert both one size too small and one size too large for the specified sheet thickness. The inserts are all designed to compress approximately the same distance during installation, so matching the length of the insert to the sheet thickness is critical. The most important factor however was using an insert with the correct grip range. The knurled body AVK's beat out the plus nuts for spin out resistance, but the plus nuts had better pull out strength for applications where there would be a high tension load on the fastener that would tend to rip the insert out axially. I think a few years back we had a customer request something similar to the plus nuts and we did some testing. Typical applications are steel inserts into steel sheet, but we also do a lot of aluminum and some stainless inserts as well. At my place of employment we use AVK brand threaded inserts with a knurled body. ![]()
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